Friday, 22 September 2017

Nepal - momos and getting into the hills

Next day was another full on one, lots of meetings and places to be and much hilarity to be had.
We started with another team meeting to work out our main priorities for the coming quarter over breakfast, and from there headed out to our lunch spot at an organisation that rescues women from trafficking, support and empowers them and helps them to refocus on new skills like tourism, English skills, paralegal skills ( to help other trafficking victims) and much more. I find the work of this organisation truly inspiring and the ladies who we met here were great fun.

'Stay positive and happy. Work hard and don't give up hope. Be open to criticism and keep learning. Surround yourself with happy, warm and genuine people.' - Tena Desae

We arrived and went straight into making momos – a traditional steamed or fried dumpling type food eaten in Nepal. There were two sorts – round or pasty shaped – all mine looked like blobs! 


We rolled out the dough into rounds then filled with a vegetable and spice mixture and packed into the dough wrapper – the ladies were so talented at this and I was simply awful! 


Simple veggies made the filling.



All mine looked like little lumpy blobs, luckily I had made a momo making friend who kept coming to my rescue and subtly reshaping mine! 


They were steamed and we got a chance to try them, yum. 

From here we had a traditional Thali lunch – rice, lentil dahl, spinach, pickles, chutney, a couple of types of curry – very nice and mixed flavours. Afterward we had a great a presentation on their work with lots of good info, which was sure to leave people thinking about trafficking and the good work of the NGO.

'Inspiration is one thing and you can't control it, but hard work is what keeps the ship moving. Good luck means, work hard. Keep up the good work.' - Kevin Eubanks

After this we moved on to another org whose focus was rescue and rehabilitation from trafficking, they also had a few care homes and a transit home for healing and rehabilitation / reintegration time. The staff here were wonderful and had been involved in this field a long time. They talked a little about the first rescue they did when they saved some children from a circus and got chased with a pistol – they now leave the rescue part to the authorities! The founder here had previously been a Gurkha and spent a lot of time in the UK, he was a lovely warm man with a great sense of humour and clearly a lot of stories to tell. The staff took us on to visit the homes and they were really well run and great examples of healing places.

[In order to protect the identity and dignity of the children here I took no photos]

In order to get this organisation we picked up a taxi, the driver thought we were tourists, but quickly learned that was not the case. We drove many, many miles to find the organisation and really struggled with directions. My colleague speaks pretty good Hindi and we were lucky she was able to communicate with the driver – not so sure she was so lucky as he started to get miffed about directions and then when we called the org told them off about their directions! He insisted on waiting for us to take us back to town, which was fine and we had a reasonable price negotiated. Then plans changed as we discovered the homes we were visiting were a half hour drive, on bumpy roads, and it was getting dark, and his engine fan wasn’t working – he went into a serious meltdown and for some reason this gave us the giggles hugely, which likely didn’t help the situation. We drove around down dark bumpy roads with the irate driver for an hour or to the point where he stated ‘I will take you here and then you are on your own’ (there was literally no way for us to get back from where we were at that time and off the beaten track and we eventually persuaded him to stay and wait for us) and we walked to the final place ahead of him driving us back to town. 

"I'm a perfect example of the grumpy, old man. I'm really good at it." - Ned Beatty

We eventually got back into town at 730pm ish, just before the driver and the car blew a gasket! We were hoping to catch an NGO talk, but didn’t get the chance, but I did briefly see my friend again before she headed off to HK, which was nice. The day ended with us wandering around looking for winter coats, pictures and a travel agent to firm up potential trips for me at the end of the few days.

After a final morning meeting with an interesting and developing NGO we headed out and up a huge winding hill to the edges of the Shiva Puri National Park to visit a school we have been supporting. 


Imagine being educated amidst these views!



The school was absolutely fabulous, especially considering how rural it is, great equipment , motivated teachers, nice environment, small classes, wonderful. We were greeted here with a blessing and a scarf, which was a nice touch. And bade farewell with  a short impromptu musical performance that the kids decided to share.


After a couple of hours here we moved on to the hotel nestled in the hillside, with amazing views over Kathmandu Valley. This was a true treat at the end of a busy week. 





 We finished up some site notes and planning for the next quarter and had some final last meetings before a lovely Thali dinner and some wine.


"When I admire the wonders of a sunset or the beauty of the moon, my soul expands in the worship of the creator." - Mahatma Gandhi

Saturday, 22 April 2017

Nepal - visits begin and Bhaktapur

With a full on day ahead of us we got up early and started our work session. We were given beautiful bracelets as a welcome to the team. The bracelets commemorated the 5th anniversary and the stones were picked out specially for their meanings of positivity,communication, self discipline, reflection, prosperity, clarity, vitality, leadership and life.

“Yes We Can!” ― Barack Obama


We did some getting to know you things and talked about our strengths and challenges and got to know the team a little better, which is great especially as we work at a distance.

Later in the morning we headed out to Bhaktapur and got our first real view of the Himalayas from the road.


 “It’s always further than it looks. It’s always taller than it looks. And it’s always harder than it looks.” (the three rules of mountaineering)

Soon we were at Bhatapur and had a quick hour to explore this ancient city. The complex very badly damaged by the earthquake sadly, more so than the other places that I saw. We managed a $5 half hour 'express tour' and a spot of lunch here....



Kali Ma

'Kali Ma - I am the night, the eternal darkness withing. I generate, venerate, and destroy. I am that which burns away your ego and false sense of self. I am fierce - crashing through barriers and breaking stereotypes.  am ruthless and relentless. I am full of an inexplicable love, an everlasting fire, a blade cutting away all that is not needed for you to embody your fullest self. I see red. Capitalize on my strength and veracity, dear one - I shall not forsake you' - Wild Soul Wellness








Quick shot of the three of us.

 

 





 


...soon we were on the road again and heading a little further out to a lovely school set up and managed by a thoughtful and inspiring man. The school was a great model and we had a lovely and interesting visit.


We headed back into town with another promise of a half hour ride into town - if the traffic was quiet, and just had time to freshen up before we were picked up by a friend who lived in Nepal. We headed out for dinner to a lovely roof terrace, great company and food, but baltic temperatures, definitely turning Cambodian!

“So when you're cold
From the inside out
And don't know what to do,
Remember love and friendship, 
And warmth will come to you.” 
― Stephen Cosgrove

Monday, 17 April 2017

Nepal - Patan Durbar Sq and the Boudhanath

Up, breakfast and a little work before heading to Patan Durbar Square. I managed to find a taxi at the end of the road, the reception said the fare should be around 500-600R and I negotiated 550r, by the time we got to Patan it was a hectic journey so I did give him 600R. He spent the first 10 mins of the ride insisting he would take me and wait for me and then wanted to take me to other sites, this seems to be the trend here to drum up more business and I really didn’t want to be tied to one particular taxi if I wandered a long way away and this seemed really hard to explain, eventually, and begrudgingly he allowed me just to be taken to Patan. Though the one driver we kept for a few hours really wished he hadn't (to come later)!!

The surrounding are, like much of Kathmandu, had small temples, beautiful door ways, some interesting street art and small alleyways of mystery on every street.






“Graffiti is one of the few tools you have if you have almost nothing. And even if you don't come up with a picture to cure world poverty you can make someone smile while they're having a piss.” ― Banksy

The square was lovely.... 








.....and also had an architecture gallery and a museum with many artifacts.

The buildings and courtyards of this ancient palace of the Malla Kings of Lalitpur were beautiful...



 

  

 




One of my favorite spots of this palace is the superbly carved sunken water tank known as the Tusha Hiti. Built in 1647, it has 72 carved stone plaques depicting Tantric deities and was used by the king for ritual ablutions. 

'Ritual is necessary for us to know anything.' - Ken Kesey



A very peaceful place to view and relax.





Inside the palace is an art and artefact gallery, with some detailed carvings and depictions of gods and deities....


                   


                  

The below piece I founds really interesting as it depicts the body, all its charkras, and the realms below and above us on our path to enlightenment... 









'To enjoy good health, to bring true happiness to one's family, to bring peace to all, one must first discipline and control one's own mind. If a man can control his mind he can find the way to Enlightenment, and all wisdom and virtue will naturally come to him.'- Buddha

The final exhibition was from a local photographer, most of which depicted  local celebration where a tall tree like tower / chariot is made and the God Machchhendranath is carried around in it - more info here http://www.insidehimalayas.com/major-festivals-of-nepal-2017/




  
 I also had lunch in the gardens of the museum before a final wander around the square and a visit to the Golden Temple 


                        




                           
  



 There was a small monastery above which we were allowed into....

                  

 

I needed to be back for 4pm when we were all meeting up, so I jumped in a taxi for the ride back. Everywhere in Kathamndu is 'only half an hour away, unless there is traffic, them, um an hour, an hour and a half, maybe two' (there is always traffic!). I had left just in time and  and walked through the door bang on. After a quick freshen up and some water we jumped in another taxi and headed to the Boudenath. A very special and spiritual place. It had been closed for renovations just after the earthquake, but there were some ceremonies to bless and reopen it when we were there. We had dinner and drinks at a Tapas bar overlooking the dome, which gave us a spectacular view and then we walked around it with everyone a couple of times and even managed to get into a small temple inside.


In a gift from Korea the top section is made from 25kgs of gold.

There are so many ways to express your spirituality and prayers....

Yak butter candles, being lit with prayers. 

Prayer flags.

Prayer wheels to spin

 
Bells to ring 

 Temples to worship at.

I wouldn't describe myself as religious, more spiritual. I have been lucky enough to visit some sites of real religious importance and its amazing how you can feel peoples wishes, dreams and prayers floating in the air at these places. Such powerful places of hope. Something the world needs more of at the moment.

'Infuse your life with action. Don't wait for it to happen. Make it happen. Make your own future. Make your own hope. Make your own love. And whatever your beliefs, honor your creator, not by passively waiting for grace to come down from upon high, but by doing what you can to make grace happen... yourself, right now, right down here on Earth.' - Bradley Whitford

"Learn to enjoy every minute of your life. Be happy now. Don't wait for something outside of yourself to make you happy in the future. Think how really precious is the time you have to spend, whether it's at work or with your family. Every minute should be enjoyed and savored." - Earl Nightingale